<J25k24>
metal engraving works better with IR laser but could work with blue too - for cutting metal you need fiber laser 200W min
<stealth_>
i see.
<J25k24>
further for cutting - the laser is only melting (vaporizing) but you need high pressure air (or water) to remove the material from the cut
<J25k24>
that vapor need to be filtered and sucked out - but also for engraving you want a air filtration on a different scale
<stealth_>
well they sell air purifier as well
<J25k24>
yeah that is bit more on the toy side ( maybe fine for engraving - not for cutting)
<stealth_>
laser cutting and engraving is quite popular lately i guess its their way of getting into that market but they didn't really have a product for that so decided to embed that into 3d printer.
<stealth_>
for cutting think wood
<stealth_>
thin*
<J25k24>
you do need a compressor for strong air stream
<J25k24>
I do see how their camera setup is quite nice to work with a laser to adjust and even engrave on 3D freeform surfaces
<stealth_>
ya, it looks like its overall a good system, just too much $ for me, i am ok with my A1
<stealth_>
i knew their next system would have multiple heads, lol guess they went with 2
<J25k24>
like ultimaker - you only need 2 as they still can use the AMS on them.
<J25k24>
two heads is important for support material to minimize the excessive flush volumes you need when switching materials not just color
<InPhase>
kintel: It could maybe be the first testcase for purging preview entirely. :)
<InPhase>
kintel: Maybe trying that on 2D is a good one for shortly after the next release, as there might be some gotchas to it. The first weird scenario that pops to mind is anything involving projection()...
<stealth_>
J25k24, suppose, it doesn't save time when changing filament does it? as those happens on the side where it needs to push the old material out.
<InPhase>
kintel: But I think we just hit the point with manifold where that would be okay to do anyway, despite the impacts of projection().
<stealth_>
J25k24, i figure they would go with 1 head working while the other is refilling! but they didn't go with that, maybe it was complicated for them.
<stealth_>
InPhase, for my use-case render is way faster than preview at this point.
<J25k24>
stealth_ it sure save also time simply as you don't need to wait till the 1-2m retraction from the AMS to change - they even have some software so you can have AMS on both and it will tell you how to load the AMS for most efficient color switching - but if you have more than 2 color it will not be so much faster
<stealth_>
J25k24, i was talking about more than 2 colors.
<stealth_>
they should have learned something from cnc, how they switch different bits.
<stealth_>
they could still have 2 heads with non-stop 1 head working at any given time (almost)
<J25k24>
stealth_ having two independent heads (IDEX printer) requires a double mechanics - if you see the prusa XL also need to switch one by one as you can't extrude if the head is not active ..
<stealth_>
J25k24, they need to have 2 heating beds, 1 active and 1 on the side for color(tool) changing.
<stealth_>
heating head or whatever its calling*
<J25k24>
yes prusa XL has complete heads with heating and extruder but you need the motion to remove the purge
<J25k24>
and as soon as you start heating - it starts oozing so you don't want that on the moving head
<stealth_>
o, looks like prusa XL has like 5heads! lol
<stealth_>
well it doesn't waste filament so thats good.
<J25k24>
I guess you could have a nice improvement if your extruder just would have 2 inputs with some switch - so the next filament is already there when the old is retracted
<J25k24>
and you always have a little waste for priming and oozing but it sure is less if you don't need to flush the noozle
<stealth_>
or just switch just the extruder heating element attached to filament! keep the once not being used in heated area on the side.
<stealth_>
i think secretly bambu likes the idea of wasting filament as they make $ off of that.
<J25k24>
can tell you it is not working so perfect on idex printer
<stealth_>
o, is my idea already done? lol figures. maybe they need for r&d
<J25k24>
there are some industrial printer working with a needle valve so the unused nozzle is closed
<stealth_>
suppose thats next logical thing to do.
<J25k24>
but still having a bit water will cause bubbles if just idling a few seconds
<J25k24>
I mean i already get issues with ironing because the flow is so little - i have to add manual purges after ironing
<J25k24>
else the layer after will start with just air ..
<stealth_>
maybe it needs to inject out the material
<J25k24>
yes "purge"
<stealth_>
i mean while printing, so it doesn't get bubbles
<stealth_>
think molding vs injection molding
<J25k24>
the new AMS2 with active drying seems a nice improvement
<J25k24>
but will not help with filament oozing
<stealth_>
they just control the filament extruding by heating/cool right?
<J25k24>
? the filament is moved by the extruder
<J25k24>
motor
<J25k24>
the drying is just by heating
<J25k24>
you can get molecular membrane chips that can remove humidity - i thought about installing those in the AMS side
<stealth_>
you talking about ams, i was talking about extruder head (the printing part)
<stealth_>
ya, i did notice 3d printer needs to have stable environment
<stealth_>
as you are saying for filament
<J25k24>
you can get preheater for filament but they are more for brittle filaments but sure will also dry it
<J25k24>
so before the filament enters the extruder is is heated and cooled ( as the extruder doesn't work with soft hot filament)
<stealth_>
ya thats where i am saying they need to do injecting, this will burst the bubble and give stable filament output.
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<J25k24>
but you need expensive and big screw extruder for this
<J25k24>
so working with fluid control of liquid hot plastic
<stealth_>
i am sure it can be done reasonable cheaply or use the current fan motor for pumping as well